Where to stay? Here's my experiences:
1) Xandari. A truly extraordinary (though somewhat pricy hotel). The room was incredible in architecture and decoration -- likely the best room I have ever stayed in. The food was delightful and reasonably priced. I even agreed to a spa treatment (their facilities there are also wonderful). Very small and private. 4 people was a crowded day at the pool. Spectacular views and delightful trails. An excellent solution to where to stay on arrival or departure from the San Juan Airport since San Juan itself is generally of little interest. Though stay a couple of days to enjoy it. In a year or two, some Hollywood star will "discover" it, the price will double, and there will never be an opening. Quirk: The room creaked substantially from thermal effects.
2) Trapp Family Lodge in Monteverde. The new rooms are disappointing and lack privacy on the ground floor. Food is mediocre at best. Reasonably good prices and service. Insufficient hot water. Damp, damp, damp. It is unclear until you are there just how much more rainy it is at the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve (and at the Lodge immediately adjacent) than where the other hotels are 2-3 miles away. The hotel's guide to the Reserve was excellent.
3) El Ocotal Resort at Playa Ocotal. "Resort" prices for creative and high-quality food and drink but not unreasonable. Great Pacific views. Service was very good in tone, but unbearably slow at times. Tolerance for raccoons begging at tables at dinner was disconcerting (there is no rabies in Costa Rica but still...) Numerous errors on bills -- however, several were in our favor so likely due to incompetence rather than malice. Internet available in the lobby. However, a great place to hang by the pool and read. Lots of potential -- a good manager could turn this into a very nice resort.
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