One of the stranger things of modern life is that the more stuff we get, the more stuff breaks. Yet the TV repairman is nearly out of business. Many things can only be repaired in distant specialty shops. And some of it is hard to transport -- getting an exercise bike out of the basement, into an SUV/pickup, dropped off, picked up, etc. is a lot of work. If I were looking for a small business for a mechanically/electrically inclined high school student, exercise equipment repair would be ideal.
So here's my Lifecycle 5000 story. The first computerized bike with variable resistance (though only one resistance program). Built for gyms, lasts forever. Doesn't require electrical power -- everything is powered by the alternator you're driving by pedal. Bought it used in 1997. Stopped working in 2001 (dead battery). From 2000 on, had problems where after 5 minutes or so, "surges" would occur requiring intense peddling far beyond normal to keep going.
1) Get to know National Gym Supply. They are your friend. The manufacturer could care less about individuals. NGS is tuned to small gyms, but they'll work with you. They provide phone technical support for troubleshooting -- not always the best help, but beats banging your head against a wall. They also offer exchange service, so you can have both your old and new parts on hand and really determine if the old part is broken. And a good catalog. Other sources have fewer parts at pretty much the same price.
2) Replace the battery ($25). That's their first advice. It may be wrong. I'd already replaced it in 2001. If you don't have a high enough battery voltage, the field won't flash on the alternator, thus power won't be produced at the right voltage. Being off a volt or two can cause a range of tricky problems and behavior. But if you can get "correct" behavior (select time, select level, pedal a couple of minutes) its not a battery problem. If the battery is below field flash voltage, you can't recharge it. Unless you flash the field with an external battery (one for power tools worked well for me)
3) Replace the alternator control board ($55). The "difficulty" of pedaling is controlled by adding artificial load to the alternator. The more power you're producing, the tougher it is to pedal. The ACB "bleeds" power through the huge honking resistor attached and has a circuitry to control the amount of power. Seems like the culprit, but its not. If this had failed you would likely see no change in perceived resistance, or a consistent increase.
4) Replace the alternator ($85). Interesting job -- get out your muscle wrenches. Ultimately, this fixed the problem. The alternator produces power based on the load applied. Once the power got beyond a certain level, the damaged brushes couldn't carry enough power, thus resistance increased exponentially trying to "force" the extra power demanded. Requires removal of the crank which requires a bearing puller (available at any auto parts store). There's a funny looking thing that looks like a setscrew on the crank -- ignore it -- just pull it off. If you could figure out another application of the same alternator, you could probably get it cheaper somewhere else.
5) Replace the alternator brush ($10.50). Probably an easier solution. I'd already bought the alternator so was committed. But on further reflection, probably would have solved the problem. No evidence of a general alternator problem, just a problem handling high power. And brushes are the wearable part.
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